National Parks are a great way to immerse yourself in nature, discover the local surroundings of a new place, and reconnect with yourself. Whether you prefer to travel solo, with friends or family, exploring a national park is a wonderful activity.
Just a few hours away from Berlin by train lies Saxon Switzerland National Park. Although relatively unknown even to some locals, this hidden gem is a tranquil complement to a visit to Germany’s capital city.
During my recent trip to Saxon Switzerland, I had the pleasure of traveling with a group of friends, one of whom resides in Berlin. We chose to stay in Bad Schandau, a charming town located just outside the park. Catering primarily to hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the town offers a variety of restaurants, cafes, shops, and hotels.
Although our stay was brief, lasting only a couple of days, one can easily spend a week exploring the park’s diverse hiking trails and engaging in other activities such as rock climbing, boating, and biking.
What to do?
- Hiking on the German or Czech side: Hiking is definitely the highlight in this area. While we explored several hikes on the German side, you can find numerous other trails using the European hiking app called Kamoot, akin to All Trails in the United States. Hiking and is deeply ingrained in the German way of life. As you hike, it is not uncommon to find families and individuals of all ages. Here are some recommended hikes:
- Schmilka – Lehnsteig loop from Schmilka-Hirschmühle: This intermediate hike features a charming café halfway through the trail, offering a perfect spot to grab a bite like homemade cucumber soup and cold beers.
- Basteibrücke – Basteiaussicht loop from Kurort Rathen: An easy to intermediate hike, this trail offers stunning views of the Bastei Bridge, sandstone cliffs, canyons, and the beautiful Elbe River. Although some sections near the bridges tend to get crowded due to its popularity, the hike is a must! There are also numerous quieter hiking trails in the vicinity.
- Kuhstall – Himmelsleiter loop from Saupsdorf: Although we didn’t have enough time for this particular hike, it is another intermediate trail worth exploring.
- Thermal Spa: Bad Schandau has a thermal spa called Toskana. While we didn’t have the opportunity to visit, these thermal spas are an integral part of German culture, providing therapeutic benefits through hydrotherapy using their mineral-rich waters.
- Relax by the River: The Elbe River flows alongside Saxon Switzerland National Park, offering a tranquil setting to unwind with a good book. During our stroll, we discovered a charming Bio-Restaurant and Hotel that serves breakfast and provides lawn chairs by the river, perfect for relaxing.
- Rowing in the Park: A short walk from Basteibrücke, you’ll find a place where you can rent row boats on Lake Amselsee. Discover more about this activity and other water-based options within the park here.
Where to eat?
- Local Restaurants in Bad Schandau: While dining options in Bad Schandau may be limited, especially after 8 pm (Germans tend to eat early!), we enjoyed Restaurant “zum Franz.” They offer delicious local “mountain” cuisine in a nice outdoor beer garden. Another alternative, Schlemmer-Eck, provides great homemade local dishes but stops seating by 8 pm.
- Smoked Fish near Bastei: On your way back into town from the Basteibrücke hike, make sure to stop by the Trout Smokehouse. This riverside restaurant serves delicious homemade smoked fish sandwiches. Unfortunately, we stumbled upon this gem after already having lunch at Rathewalder Mühle, a midway point during our hike, where we suspect they served smoked fish from Trout Smokehouse.
Where to stay?
- Airbnb: Booking an Airbnb apartment is an excellent option in Germany. We found a comfortable apartment for our group of five here.
- Local Hotels and Homestays: There are several local hotels and homestays scattered throughout the area. Booking.com is a reliable platform to explore various accommodation options, like this one.
In addition to Bad Schandau, you can also consider staying in the towns of Obervogelgesang, Stadt Wehlen, Kurort Rathen, and Königstein, which are either near or within the park. Alternatively, you could stay on the Czech side or plan a day trip from nearby Dresden.
Other Tips for visiting Saxon Switzerland
- Transportation: To reach the national park from Berlin or Prague, you have the option of taking the train or the bus. Utilize Rome2Rio to check schedules and availability, and then book directly via the provider. Although train tickets may be slightly more expensive, the experience is well worth it. Trips typically run via German (Deutsche Bahn) or Czech (České dráhy) trains. If you take the bus, FlixBus is good. NOTE: If possible, book the Czech train for an elevated experience, as it offers a next-level café car with white tablecloth tables, a chef who prepares food on the spot (I even witnessed him chopping vegetables!), and impeccable service. Regardless of the train you choose, the journey itself is an enjoyable experience, particularly if you can secure one of the compartments for the full experience.
- Getting around: A car is not a necessity within Saxon Switzerland National Park and the surrounding areas. Walking to and from the train station is feasible, and local buses conveniently connect to many hiking trails. Your hotel or Airbnb should provide you with a Mobility Guest Pass that allows you to take the local transport for free. There is also a ferry you can use the pass for to get across the river, but it runs very infrequently. Learn more about public transport in and around the park here.
By making the most of your visit to Saxon Switzerland National Park, you’ll experience the perfect blend of nature, outdoor activities, local cuisine, and relaxation. This hidden gem offers the opportunity to understand more about German culture, embrace the beauty of nature, and reconnect with your loved ones and yourself.
Wow, the hike and the food looks amazing!